# D.I.Y Russian Pyramid?

I was so impressed with the results that Dr. Golod and his team claimed to have achieved with the 144ft, 72ft and 36ft pyramids that I built my own! So, its not 36ft tall, but it is in the same mathematical series at Dr. Golod’s at 2.25 ft tall.

As per the information I built it to a an exact angle of 72 degrees, didn’t use any metal fasteners, made sure my model pyramid was hollow and oriented it to true north. Result… inconclusive. I did feel a tingling and what seemed to be pressure once I had brought my scale model Russian pyramid into the house. However a glass of water left under it for a few hours showed no special powers that I could see.

Anyway here are the pictures of my somewhat amateur construction methods. I see this pyramid as a scale model or like an architectural model. It is designed to show off the form and scale of the Russian pyramids that have been reported to have such a beneficial effect on their environment.

Here is the base of my 2.25ft high D.I.Y. Russian pyramid. I ripped a 2×2 to exactly 72 degrees and then cut 45’s on the corners to meet up nicely.

Next I cut the legs to the exact length I needed to make the overall height 2.25ft (this is in a direct ratio to Golod’s 144ft tall pyramid).

After cutting the legs I spent an hour trying to figure out the angles to make them meet at the point. But, to my grade 11 math teacher’s regret I just ended up marking and recutting them till they all met up nicely. The eventual angle was a compound of 16 degrees I think.

The basic shape is now coming together. No vortex of healing energy yet but maybe its not quite aligned to true north!

After I hot glued it together (no metal remember!) I took it outside to see if it would melt snow. It didn’t but then I only had it outside for a minute or two, but hey it was cold!

Then I covered it with exotic jungle hardwood to increase the resonance. Ok, it was a piece of veneer from Home Depot, but it looks better and all the forums say it needs to have sides to work properly. Still no snow melting though.

Then I took it indoors to see what my wife would think of the awesome healing powers (I currently have a cold and hoped it would cure me). Still no vortex that I can see but maybe too much wifi, metal roofing etc. Golod did say they work best outdoors in pristine nature.

However when I brought my D.I.Y. Russian pyramid in the house I seemed to notice a tingling and buzzing sense and I was definitely happy and laughing which was a change for the better for me! Maybe it is working…. only time will tell.

Next time I will build a 4.5ft plywood version with no internal frame. Quick and simple is best when testing. Also I have heard that limestone paint will increase the frequency gathering capacity too.

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### 35 Responses to Build Your Own Russian Pyramid

1. Rick A. Ahrens says:

The whole point of a piramid is captivating the energy from the earth. A small piramid captivates a small amount of energy. The large piramid of Egypt utilized the energy currents of the substructure of the earth. In other words… like acupuncture manipulates the energy flowing in the channels below the surface of the skin… the piramids captivate the energy cirulating beneath the substructure of the earth. Small piramid.. little energy. It is also a good idea to construct the piramid of earth materials such as mixing clay with lime and granite. This acts a “ground” that captivates and channels the energy. Want to make it more productive… insert a mixture of the above ingredients. Let it harden. Insert it into the earth… 3 feet minimum with one foot extending above the surface. Now place your piramid over this structure. The hardened mixture acts like a acupuncture needle and allows the energy to surface into the piramid. Actually to make this more realistic it is necessary to make this hardened mixture to extend into the surface 5 to 10 meters with 1 to 2 meters surfacing above the ground with a proportional sized piramid constructed over it. This is called the Dolman effect. Good luck.

Thanks for the info Rick! I wish I could afford to build an underground pyramid 10 meters tall! But that being said I totally agree with you and by using a matrix of small pyramids you can get amazing effects by adding the power together.

2. jason says:

hi, how much will you charge to build a 72 inches high pyramid with base of 44.5 inches? in wood, if you do, thanks!

Hi Jason,

Exactly \$27.00 as that is the price of the instruction manual! Of course you need a some materials but if you are crafty you can get those for free.

3. Tom Newcomb says:

I made a scale model doing some carpenter style reckoning, but it didn’t come out just right, although it does great things for the flavor of fruits and wines.

The simplest way to construct models under 8′ high is to cut them out of plywood or poster-board.

What we really need to know for making plywood models is the height of the center tip/point relative to the length of one side of the base when laid out on a flat sheet so that it ends up 2.01 times as high as the length of it’s base when standing.

For example, if using a sheet of plywood, how wide can the base be when using the full 8 feet of length?

Using graph paper, I got a good idea of the length of the hip, from which I derived a ratio for base length to tip height usable for a flat sheet. When I put it together, the 30″model came out about 1″ too tall. After adjusting for this the ratio for this type of construction looks to be around 2.06 or 7 to wind up at Golad’s 1 to 2.01 Golden ratio when erected.

If someone wanted to build one larger than 8′, we would want to know how to calculate the length of the hip, very precisely, if we were going to do it in the first place.

Has anyone done the trig for this type of pyramid?

Tom.

Hi Tom,

Great comments! See David Kwan’s comment re: Russian Pyramid Math as once the numbers start getting replaced by letters my hair starts to hurt!

• Tom Newcomb says:

Thanks for the post from David Kwan. Though his shorthand is somewhat cryptic, his calculation posed as: “*Phi = 2.0582, ratios of Slant Height / Base” seems to confirm my physical calculation of 2.06/1 as a working ratio between base and hip lengths useful to construct Russian sharp pyramids whose apex is 2.02 times taller than the width if it’s base, as stipulated by Golod.

I have long wondered what the golden means ratio had to do with the 2.02-1 formula used by Golod, and now I have another clue. If David, or anyone with this knowledge reads this post, perhaps you would be willing to edify.

• Jamie Herbert says:

Hey folks,
It is my belief that the Golden Ratio / Phi = 1.618 or more commonly known as the Fibonacci Sequence and from my calculations (mind you though, I am not the sharpest chisel in the pouch 😉 )using the Cleave Books, The Pyramid Calculator – http://www.cleavebooks.co.uk/scol/calpyr.htm – the ratio of base to slant to height to the dihedral angle (the angle between one of the triangular faces and the base) does work out to be 1.618 0r the Golden Ratio/Fibonacci Sequence

• Tom Newcomb says:

Hi Jamie,

I just posted in another thread addressing your observation, where I offer my ideas and request further clarification from the administrator. I will post this below for your review:

Dina says:
June 30, 2016 at 07:01

I must admit I am bit confused at times. The Giza pyramid follows the 1.618 golden ratio cals but the Russian pyramids seem to follow the 2.058 ratio. In the series done by David Wilcock on GAIATV, he seemed to indicate that a great deal of research conducted around the Russian pyramid measurements showed enormous evidence that the use of these angles and natural fabrics are better than those of Giza….any thoughts…I am in the process of buying some doweling and making my own to see how it performs. I wanted to try the Russian format first…..thoughts or personal experience stories welcome.

November 15, 2016 at 13:00

Hi Dina,
The Russian pyramid math I used in the book is based on the golden ratio of 1.618. Essentially a series of golden spheres stacked on top of each other provides you with the shape of the Russian or Nubian style pyramid. Dr. Patrick Flanagan has great results using titanium but as you noticed both Wilcock and Dr. Golod advice to try non-metallic materials, though many have said that copper is amazing for pyramids of all styles.
Tom Newcomb says:
November 15, 2016 at 14:52

Hi admin, and thanks for your maintaining this forum. This is the best clue I’ve heard, however it is not a complete description and therefor too vague for me to consider myself knowledgeable.

It sounds like this formula begins by using the equatorial diameter of a given sphere as the length of the sides for the base for the pyramid. If you stack spheres on top of the first which are .618 of the diameter of the one below it and continue upwards in this manor, you wind up with hip members that form a rough golden means curve by connecting lines between the corners of each base with the point where a line intersects the outside of the second sphere and from there, the outer boundaries of each subsequent sphere upwards until the lines connect at the zero point. If the height of this zero point measures 2.01 times the base length, then I comprehend how Golod utilized the stacked sphere concept to incorporate phi into his sharp pyramid design. It would then be a simple matter to calculate the distance between the two points (corners of the base and the apex at zero point), providing the builder with the hip length for construction. If this is not correct, will you please post a fuller description? A link to a graphic would be very helpful as well.

4. Janet says:

I would like to give it a go. You have aligned your pyramid to true north. How do we find true north accurately in our own home as opposed to magnetic north which we can find with a compass? Many thanks.

Do a Google search for “aligning a pyramid” and you will get a couple of different methods. The more exact you are the better it works but even a iPhone compass can get you in the ballpark and start your pyramid charging up.

5. Prim says:

Dear sir, please tell me the steps that I need to do your pyramid. I want to do this 50 cm high for my home. This technology is not yet known in Italy and therefore we do not have the exact measurements. Please give me the measurements of one of the triangles of the 4 sides to build a pyramid housewife 50 cm high. How long the base of the triangle? How long the 2 sides? Thanks and sorry for the bad english.

best regards
Primiano SCHIAVONE

Hi Prim,

Thanks for the comment. Recently I have been learning even more about the amazing powers of Russian Pyramids and now know that small ones, while fun aren’t really powerful enough to do much more than cure headaches and sharpen razor blades. That being said if you download my book you can follow the simple steps to build any size pyramid you want. My next one will hopefully be at least 12ft high. Keep us posted with your progress

• Dina says:

If you are using the Golod calculations then use a factor of Phi=2.0582
Base 50 cm x 2.0582 = 102.91 cm tall
Use natural and NON-metals to ensure energy stays inside the pyramid. Wood or PVC is excellent for this purpose. Use string to tie the tubes together..good luck

6. Ikesh says:

It’s really very simple. Decide on the size of the square that will form the pyramid base. For example, say you want a 5 foot base. Now you know the size of the four sides of the base. Each will be 5 ft. You need four pieces of whatever material you are using; copper pipe, wood, pvc pipe, etc. Now to calculate the height. You take the base length (5 ft) and multiply that by 1.618 (golden ratio) to get the height of the vertical pieces. In this case it would be 5′ x 1.618 = 8.09′. 8.09 ft is the length of your vertical pieces. You need 4 of those.

Now you can create your square base (easy) and somehow (depends on what material you are using, so get creative) attach the vertical poles to the corners of the base square, such that they all meet at the top. A triangle has 3 angles and 3 sides giving a total of six dimensions. However, you only need any 3 of these to define it. We have the lengths of the three sides, so if joined properly, the angles should come out to 72 degrees at the bottom where the base horizontal pole/bar meets the vertical pole and 36 degrees for the top where any two vertical poles meet.

These are the dimensions for the so called Nubian Pyramid, or which is now also known as the russian pyramid since Dr Golod adopted it as his pyramid design of choice, based on his research.

• Dina says:

I must admit I am bit confused at times. The Giza pyramid follows the 1.618 golden ratio cals but the Russian pyramids seem to follow the 2.058 ratio. In the series done by David Wilcock on GAIATV, he seemed to indicate that a great deal of research conducted around the Russian pyramid measurements showed enormous evidence that the use of these angles and natural fabrics are better than those of Giza….any thoughts…I am in the process of buying some doweling and making my own to see how it performs. I wanted to try the Russian format first…..thoughts or personal experience stories welcome.

Hi Dina,
The Russian pyramid math I used in the book is based on the golden ratio of 1.618. Essentially a series of golden spheres stacked on top of each other provides you with the shape of the Russian or Nubian style pyramid. Dr. Patrick Flanagan has great results using titanium but as you noticed both Wilcock and Dr. Golod advice to try non-metallic materials, though many have said that copper is amazing for pyramids of all styles.

• Tom Newcomb says:

Hi admin, and thanks for your maintaining this forum. This is the best clue I’ve heard, however it is not a complete description and therefor too vague for me to consider myself knowledgeable.

It sounds like this formula begins by using the equatorial diameter of a given sphere as the length of the sides for the base for the pyramid. If you stack spheres on top of the first which are .618 of the diameter of the one below it and continue upwards in this manor, you wind up with hip members that form a rough golden means curve by connecting lines between the corners of each base with the point where a line intersects the outside of the second sphere and from there, the outer boundaries of each subsequent sphere upwards until the lines connect at the zero point. If the height of this zero point measures 2.01 times the base length, then I comprehend how Golod utilized the stacked sphere concept to incorporate phi into his sharp pyramid design. It would then be a simple matter to calculate the distance between the two points (corners of the base and the apex at zero point), providing the builder with the hip length for construction. If this is not correct, will you please post a fuller description? A link to a graphic would be very helpful as well.

Hi Tom,
Sound like you are well on your way down the pyramid math rabbit hole! My understanding is similar to yours however, I took a more global perspective and trusted my mathematician friends to address the finer points of pyramid trigonometry. I am a Russian pyramid enthusiast, tinkerer and experimenter and what I keep top of mind is, that while the exact math is of primary concern, ALL platonic solids will gather torsion field energy to one degree or another and thus any pyramid that I build will have some pyramid power generation capacity. Dr. Golod felt that the steep sided Russian pyramid without metal pushed energy out more than in, while more shallow angled Giza style pyramids seem to concentrate energy inside more.

For me the important part is actually building pyramids! Once you have a live pyramid then do the science and see what type, shape, material, alignment, location, etc. works best in your situation. Here is an interesting excerpt from another pyramid researcher:

“My little cardboard Giza pyramid puts on quite a show when the humidity is low — 30% or less. For instance, when the model is standing with its base line on magnetic North, the scent of the Scotch tape that holds it together is amplified and travels throughout any building it is in.”

He repeated the test with another material and found that a few hours after he had put a leaf from a tree on the platform inside the small cardboard model pyramid, the air in the garage picked up the strong aroma of foliage. A new type of aromatherapy perhaps?

The author also noted that the pyramid effect he observed was specific to certain pyramids that he tested so: “Build, test, record, repeat!

• Tom Newcomb says:

I don’t think this is correct. Golod uses base length x 2.02 to arrive at apex height (rather than base x phi to get height). This then leaves you to calculate hip length using trig. It’s not clear yet where phi ratio enters into Golod’s methodology, though it has now been suggested that he stacked golden spheres in some fashion to yield the 2.02/1 ratio.

7. George says:

Pyramids in general have few materials I don’t suggest building them from ex: wood and aluminum.
Calculations are similar to Egyptians ones where they use the “golden ratio number, which is 1.62”
For the Russian ones I personally use “PI” which is “3.14” and I always get them right.
Honestly I haven’t tested their powers as I built only small version made of stainless steel and copper, I do believe if I built them to a larger scale I can get some results.
I have managed to get the some results building Egyptians pyramids to a smaller scale : as sharpening razors, I have been 2 razors blades for shaving for over 2 years. Impressed.
For those who are still struggling how to build or even calculate a pyramid (1.62)
I do intend to build a ” Pi-3.14″ pyramid under the camera to share what I know on YouTube, soon.
Good luck to all of you out there.

Hi George,
Thanks for the information! And the great pyramid greenhouse videos on YouTube. What makes you suggest that wood isn’t an ideal material for building pyramids? The original razor blade sharpening patent used cardboard (cellulose) did it not? Also I have seen amazing results in wooden pyramid greenhouses and bamboo pyramid frames when growing food.

8. bob hoffman says:

As a carpenter, I’ve gotta gets some clarification to dimensions used: Namely, the outside dimensions are not the same as the inside dimensions.

How can someone determine which is more important to match up with the golden section??

Hi Bob,
The essential fact that many overlook but was not lost on the original pyramid builders as well as later pioneers, such as Joe Parr and Les Brown as well as Wilcock noted that ALL platonic solids will concentrate torsion field energy, chi, prana, pyramid energy, etc. just some are more effective. The math I found to be most effective (stacked golden Phi ratio spheres) created an inside angle (side to base) of 76.345 and an outside (floor to side) angle of 103.655. BUT here is the secret. ALL pyramids generate pyramid power effects when properly aligned!

9. Robert Messer says:

So, I bought your book. Good info. Although I never received a member login or anything like that.
I am interested in building a 10 to 15 foot Russian pyramid out of the same materials that they used, but I’m unsure of how to connect the PVC at these odd angles. Also what materials to use to strongly attach fiberglass pannels to the PVC. I know I can’t use anything metal. I just can’t picture any glue to affix PVC to fiberglass, that would withstand moderate winds. With a rounded PVC pipe, I would have very little surface area for the glue to adhere to. Any info or ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Hi Robert,
If you are here you are in the members area! Or email me: sasha@ten1000things.org for more info. I suggest using solid wood for pyramids but if you were wanting to do PVC then I would suggest finding square tubing as that would be much easier to work with.

• Octo Byra. says:

How bout drilling holes in the PVC and using cable ties to attach … ?

• Robert Messer says:

Thanks Octo, that’s a great/simple idea.

10. Roy Chee says:

Hi,

Thank you so much for your work. We all choose our path and are also guided down it in an incarnation. To me yours is doing this beautiful work.

I just purchased your eBook and am sure it will be of great help to me, our Environment and our Great Mother Gaia – I will build at least one Pyramid.

May Your Divine Spark Continue To Shine

Love Light and Peace

Roy

11. Roy Chee says:

Hi Again Sasha,

I have built my Backyard Russian Pyramid. I used you ratios and built a Ply unit. Thank you. Can you recommend the best practice for Energizing Water or is it per page 11?
Thanks

Love Light and Peace

Roy

Hi Roy!
Great going! Make sure it is properly aligned and then make a platform to hold the water at exactly 29% of the total height of your pyramid. This is the height of the Kings Chamber in the great pyramid and should give you good results. Use glass bottles with no metal! Pyrex, ceramic, pottery, or stone containers will also work. No plastic please!

12. Octo Byra. says:

I built one about two feet high using no metallic materials as instructed by David Wilcock, to treat my drinking water. But I keep it in my bedroom on the second floor of my house, and I wonder if it will work with all the metallic materials around it — electric wires in the walls, nails in the floors, wireless signals, high tech devices, tables and chairs with metal, etc. Would it work better on a concrete basement floor?